Increase FOC of wood shafts using Woody Weights

So I started using Woody Weights recently to increase the weight and FOC of my wood arrows. In discussing with a few others it seems that there is some confusion around how to use these so I put together this simple How-To in hopes it helps others. This is my method and seems to work well on 3D targets as well as stumping.

First gather the items needed. For me I use the following:

Arrows, Woody Weights (They come in 75-200 grains),  points (can be field points, broadheads, Judos, etc.), Hot Melt glue or Ferr-L-Lite (I prefer regular hotmelt), and a  Candle – any will do, I use whatever unscented candle I happen to have around.  Also a pocket knife for trimming excess glue, a cup of water to cool points after gluing and a pair of pliers.

Here is my table ready to apply weights. These shafts are 23/64 Chundoo (Lodgepole Pine) spined 95#-100#, I am applying 100 grain Woody Weights to 160 grain fieldpoints.

I start by heating all components to be glued. When using normal hotmelt it does not have to be extra hot just enough so that it does not cool the glue too quickly. If using Ferr-L-Lite I have found you need to get the components hotter before applying.

First the Arrow.

Now heat the woody weight while holding the tip of the point. I hold them at a slant with the opening above the flame while rotating the point, this also burns any oil or residue that may be in the point.

Now heat the glue stick in the same manner. Spread a little glue onto the tip of the arrow and then reheat slightly, try not to burn the glue.

Now slide the woody weight onto the shaft and press down on a hard surface. Rotate the shaft in the woody weight to work out excess glue and air pockets while centering the shaft in the weight. Spin test while focusing on the shaft and the woody weight. Once satisfied, cool the point in water. The result should resemble the photo below. Note the point has not been glued to weight at this point but was placed on the point for spin testing.

Now trim the excess glue and remove the point from the weight. Repeat the steps for the point, heating the woody weight on the shaft, the point to affix and the glue. Apply glue to the woody weight same as was applied to the arrow. Now slide the point on the woody weight, Apply pressure to the point to force out excess glue and air. Spin the shaft to center and align the point. Once satisfied with the straightness, cool the point again trim off excess glue and spin test once more. The result should look like this: 

If the arrow does not spin as you would like, simply re-heat and twist the point on the shaft to center it. Usually the first time works well and you won’t need to reheat. To remove or change points simply reheat and remove.

Thats pretty much it. Hope this helps someone out as I was a bit puzzled about adding weight to wood shafts until I just dove in and figured it out.  As previously mentioned you can also user Ferr-L-Tite and it seems to work just as well in my climate, but I have heard others having issues when the temps get really cold. Other glues and epoxies will also work but I have found that this is the easiest method for removal and adjustment later.

Don’t forget to spine for the extra weight and I would highly recommend starting with longer shafts than normal so that you can dial the spine in for your particular bow. I love a heavy FOC arrow with my longbows. They fly really well and hit hard! Enjoy!

Woodyweights are now available here at the Simply Traditional Store.



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  1. I’ve been looking at woody weights as well and hope to try them on my next set of arrows.

    I typically roll the arrows on a flat surface (nothing as nice as your desk in the pictures) while the glue is still hot so that I can ensure that the points are on correctly. Saves me having to re-heat and / or re-glue.

  2. Great job Steve! Wanted to try WW for awhile to increase my total grains. Train is right! Gonna order some pdq!

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